The shopping mall food court isn’t dead, it’s just getting a glow-up.
The U.S. has only about 1,150 malls left, down from 25,000 in 1986, according to Capital One Shopping Research. Most of the remaining ones could shut over the next decade, but there’s still reason for hope: The mall food court is entering its bougie era.
Historically, food courts served up greasy, mediocre junk food on (equally greasy) plastic trays. You left with a shaky stomach and perhaps a vague sense of sadness for humanity. But they increasingly and literally cater to changing tastes, from fast-casual options to Michelin-starred destinations.
The trend started in Bangkok, London, and Istanbul, where “food halls” — characterized by locally sourced ingredients, hip restaurateurs, and TikTok-able backdrops — replaced the depressing food courts of yesteryear. Now California is (as ever) leading America’s cultural charge. Look no further than:
- Mario Batali’s Eataly Los Angeles, which opened in 2017, takes up 67,000 square feet of the Westfield Century City Mall. Across town at the Westfield Topanga Mall, Katsu Sando — a sandwich shop inspired by Japanese convenience stores — has earned a “rabid fanbase,” according to Eater.
- Orange County’s South Coast Plaza is home to Michelin Guide favorites Knife Pleat and AnQi Bistro.
- Mexican restaurant Flores, which also has Michelin recognition, expanded from downtown San Francisco to locations at nearby Hillsdale Shopping Center and Bay Street Emeryville.
- Beloved L.A. sushi chain Sugarfish has locations in numerous strip malls and shopping centers, although some have more celebrity sightings than others.
You get the idea. Boba has more hype than Orange Julius. Lukewarm pasta sauce and half-frozen soda are out; top chefs and upscale delicacies are in. Both quality and price are higher, which makes sense: Food is second only to electronics when it comes to mall sales per square foot, according to the International Council of Shopping Centers.
“The food court [is] undergoing a transformation to stay relevant in today’s competitive food industry,” writes Heartatwork Hospitality Consulting CEO Will Odwarka. “With a focus on authenticity, diversity, quality, ambiance, and technology, modern food courts are offering consumers a more dynamic and engaging dining experience.”
And it might just lure customers back to those dying malls.