As imports get more expensive and fast fashion falls apart, there’s an opening for local dressmakers. Just ask designer Haley Solar, whose namesake store — which recently made waves for its immersive Twin Peaks experience — has become an institution in the Los Angeles neighborhood of Eagle Rock.
Speaking to b. from her workroom, surrounded by bolts of colorful fabric and notes on a whiteboard, Solar explained how she’s carving out space during this industry shift. She spoke with us on the realities of operating a small fashion company and why “Made in the USA” can be better for both a product’s quality and the people who make it.
b.: Did anything surprise you when you first started your business in terms of how you would be able to price handmade items?
Solar: The main thing that surprised me was how little there was an understanding of the manufacturing process. … Something that is sewn [by hand] may look “crafty” or cheap to a consumer who’s really used to seeing things done on a massive scale for a really small amount of money.
I’ve been sewing my entire life. To look at a garment and see a price that is far beyond the cost of labor … to make that item means that there is a huge violation of humanity within that [and] a massive carbon footprint by sending fabric back and forth across seas and air in order to cut down on human labor.
b.: How did you address that with your customers?
Solar: I started teaching sewing classes, and that created another stream of income. It also helped me channel my frustration with the lack of understanding around where our clothing comes from.
b.: What is a reasonable price for clothes?
Solar: I would say a reasonable price is something between highly accessible apparel — the price point you would find at Zara or at Target, or at any fast fashion store — and a more elevated shopping experience that you would find at a … Nordstrom Contemporary brand.
b.: How do you manage your stock levels in terms of how many of a piece you should make?
Solar: That’s probably the hardest thing to manage in my business — the inventory. I think anybody in retail or in wholesale will say the same thing. Everything is a guessing game.
So you need to figure out how many items are going to sell and how much you can afford to make. … Sometimes you’re going to leave money on the table, but you’re not going to have waste. … The biggest mistake that anyone makes in manufacturing is overproducing.
b.: What advice would you give someone who is starting a fashion brand?
Solar: Start small [but] don’t be afraid of large margins. Sometimes as creators, we feel guilty selling to someone at a certain price point. … People want to support you so that you can keep going. Don’t be afraid to make money off of selling to friends and family because that’s the only way you’re gonna have a business.
This interview has been edited for length. Read the full Q&A at business.com.